Go Kart is different from bumper cars

This is the question most people ignore. They look at the go kart as being a great deal but forget to answer the question of "How Much Am I Going To Be Spending Over The Next 5 Years On This Go Kart?"

This questions falls into two camps:


The guy who is buying a used go kart
The guy who is making a new go kart

First lets discuss the guy who is buying a used go kart or even a new go kart for that matter. He needs to take into consideration the potential problem areas on the go kart.

Secondly, the guy who is making a new go kart needs to consider the consequences of using old parts or the long term effect of faulty designs.

The following list is a compilations of problem areas that go karts see:

Chain

Is the chain big enough for the go kart http://bestonbumperboats.com/amusement-park-go-karts-for-sale/?
Does it appear worn out yet (the links are sloppy)?
Notice I did not say "Is the chain dirty?!" A dirty chain may be a healthy chain. Look at the article on Chain Care.
Is the chain rusted solid? Will it ever be able to be loosened? (Sometimes chain can be freed up by penetrating oil, but the life of the chain is numbered probably in months after freeing it up.)

Clutches

Is the clutch wobbly? If it is, the bearing inside the clutch is worn out. This does not mean the clutch is junk, it just means that the clutch bushing needs replacement.

Is the clutch sized properly for the go kart, or is it worn out because the go kart is too heavy for the engine/clutch combination?

What type of clutch is it?

Is the clutch a centrifugal clutch?
Are the shoe weights worn significantly?
How about the driving bell, does it show signs of metal fatigue?
How about the driver, is the clutch driver shearing because of over torque?
Is the clutch a belt clutch?
Is the belt significantly worn?
Are there signs of belt cracking?

How often was the go kart driven? (This will give you an indication of whether the belt drive was working well. If the belt drive does not work well, it will not be driven very much. A test drive would be recommended.)

Is the belt tension system easy to work with, or are there more parts than you can remember or count on one hand? (If the number of parts exceeds 10 {including bolts and nuts} then the cost goes up exponentially.) Maintenance and knowledge of drives is important with this system.

Is the clutch a variable speed clutch? (Industry name: Comet Clutch)
Is the belt for the clutch worn?
Is there heat fatigue on the clutch pulley surfaces?
If there is excessive belt wear and heat fatigue that means that the clutch is used a lot or that is it slipping a lot. It can mean that the go kart is driven at low speeds primarily, which means the clutch is not fully engaging and is burning up the clutch parts.

Belt and heat fatigue can also be an indicator of the clutch not being matched well for the go kart.
Not being matched well can mean that the go kart is too heavy Or that the clutch is not engaging in the rpm range of the go kart engine:

Translation: the engine can not crank out 5000 rpms to get it engage. The engine only operates as 3600 rpms max. If so the clutch actuates at a higher rpm and therefore the camming action does not occur quick enough and causes the pulleys to slip and generate heat on the pulleys and burn the belt.

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